RECREATING THE UNIVERSE, THE REAL MOON 1980 BY CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW

The Netherlands has an age-old tradition in the field of traditionally-made timepieces. The traditional techniques are passed on from generation to generation. These technical skills are combined with great creativity. The Dutch province of Friesland is famous for the technically-ingenious and stunning clocks that are designed and made there. In the picturesque Frisian village of Joure, Christiaan van der Klaauw started designing and making exclusive hand-made astronomical timepieces in the early nineteen-seventies. Christiaan van der Klaauw received his education at the instrument-maker school founded in 1901 by Nobel Physics prize winner Prof. Heike Kamerlingh Onnes. It was at this school that helium gas was liquefied for the first time in 1908. Some contemporaries who worked for the same laboratory were Albert Einstein, Niels Bohr, H. Lorentz and W. Röntgen. During his education, Christiaan did his apprenticeship with the oldest observatory in the world, founded in 1633. The world-famous astronomer Prof. J.H. Oort (discoverer of the Planetoid belt named after him) was attached to this observatory. During his apprenticeship, Christiaan became increasingly interested in everything connected with astronomy, which showed later on in the production of his Frisian clocks, table clocks and, eventually, his watches.

The well-known astronomer from Leiden, Christiaan Huygens, maker of the first Pendulum clock, inspired Christiaan van der Klaauw to design his first timepieces. The bracket clocks made early on in his career were technically very complicated and had, even at this early stage, ingenious astronomical applications. The timepieces from this period are real collectors' items nowadays. In 1990 Christiaan van der Klaauw presented a true masterpiece: the Astronomical Clock. This clock was one of the reasons why he was asked to become a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI).

In 1992 Christiaan van der Klaauw won the prestigious gold medal at the watch fair of Basel with his 'Pendule Variable', which won him a definite place among the great contemporary masters.

THE MASTERPIECE real moon 1980

With the Real Moon 1980, Christiaan van der Klaauw presents one of the most attractive and interesting watches of the past year. In the Real Moon 1980, the year refers to a famous clock that Christiaan van der Klaauw made in 1980 and that contained a beautiful miniature Moon. With this watch, Christiaan van der Klaauw has combined a number of ingenious complications in a wonderful creation.

At the six o’clock position on the dial of the watch, a true-to-life ‘miniature’ Moon depicts its actual phases. At the 12 o’clock position, the height of the Sun in relation to the horizon can be read by means of a fine moving Christiaan van der Klaauw logo. The axis of the Earth’s rotation is tilted with respect to the position of the Sun. The result of this phenomenon - called declination - is that at places where the Earth is tilted towards the Sun, it is summer. Where it is winter, the Earth is tilted away from the Sun, and it is colder. The three o’clock position is reserved for the so-called Eclipse hand. When the Eclipse hand moves within the indication marks, there is an eclipse of the Sun or the Moon somewhere on the Earth. Finally, there is the nine o’clock position. Here, the phase of the Moon and the date can be seen.

In the upper part of the face we have a zodiac indicator.

With this surprising and innovative combination of complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw proves once again that he belongs to the elite in the world of ‘haute horlogerie'.

Some specifications of this masterpiece:

Movement: CK 1094 modified self-winding movement with in-house Real Moon 1980 module.

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, month; moonphase, declination of the sun; eclipse hand indicates solar and lunar eclipse.

Case: Rose gold, ø 40 mm. anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back.

Dial: Silver with blue indexes.

Hands: Blued steel.

Strap: Black alligator leather.

Buckle: Logo engraved rose gold buckle.

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 HD3 BLACK PEARL

Later this week I will be making an exciting announcement about the newish Slyde collection from HD3 Complication (well, it will be exciting for me at least!) For many, the Slyde has been their first real introduction to this cool little brand, but the fact is before HD3 shifted their focus to the development of their digital collection, they were better known for producing limited edition, highly complex mechanical timepieces.

That’s why today I’ve decided to take a look back at one of their earlier creations, the Black Pearl, first launched in 2010. After all, as they say, you cannot know where you are going if you do not know where you have been!

As the name suggests, the theme and design of the Black Pearl was inspired by the fantasy world of swash-buckling pirates and buccaneers, albeit with a decidedly futuristic bent. What exactly does that mean, you ask? Well, think of it this way, if Captain Jack Sparrow were to sail into port on his hover ship in the year 2100, this would be the watch he would be wearing. That’s right they’ll still be incorporating traditional tourbillions into timepieces a century from now.

The brain-child of gifted designer Fabrice Gonet, himself a former student of the legendary Jorg Hysek, the Black Pearl captures perfectly the bold and aggressive, yet still charismatic, nature so often associated with the pirate protagonists of lore. Crafted from titanium or pink gold, both with PVD coatings, the color-scheme is predominantly black with contrasting numerals in blood-red luminova.

Everything about the design is three-dimensional and gives the Black Pearl a real sense of depth. This is especially apparent with the bi-axial tourbillon, which can be viewed from both the front and rear of the timepiece, as well as through a cleverly designed opening on the side of the case at 9 o’clock. This opening is covered by a cannon hatch, complete with the instantly recognizable insignia of a skull and crossed swords.

According to the brand the tourbillon’s unique display is inspired by the early days of naval exploration. The hours are shown on a wheel at 9 o’clock, the minutes on a disc at 12 o’clock, and an indicator in the form of a sextant at 11 o’clock keeps track of the 80-hour power reserve.

To round out the naval inspired theme a compass rose has been engraved on the sapphire case-back and the crown has been modeled on a ship’s tiller.

More often than not we focus our attention on only a brand’s newest releases – vintage enthusiasts excluded, of course – and with good reason. After all, these brands invest millions to get our attention when they release a new product. Every now and then though, I think it pays to take a moment to look back at some of their earlier creations, especially the smaller brands you may not be as familiar with, to really get a sense of where they’ve come from. HD3 is not just some overnight success that has popped up out of nowhere with a cool new gadget, this is an established brand with real-life experience in the world of haute horology and in my opinion, knowing that makes their newer creations all the more attractive.

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RICHARD MILLE RM11 L.E. FORMULA 1 FELIPE MASSA

It’s been a long-time coming – 5 years in fact – but Formula 1 is finally set to make its triumphant return to the United States later this year. To celebrate this special occasion Richard Mille, in collaboration with F1 driver Felipe Massa, has created a new, limited edition RM 011 Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph that will be available exclusively from the Richard Mille Boutique in Beverly Hills, California.

The first thing you notice about the new RM 011 is the use of color. It’s very bright but in a good, sporty way and is reticent of the brightly colored helmet that Massa himself wears when racing. The use of color also contrasts nicely against the muted tones of the black carbon tripartite case and the matching yellow on the dial helps to break things up a little, although whether it improves legibility in any way at all is debatable.

As with most Richard Mille timepieces, the RM 011 is packed with features including a flyback chronograph, 60-minute countdown timer, 12-hour totalizer, annual calendar and oversize date and month. The automatic winding movement has been skeletonized and includes adjustable rotor geometry however, as often is the case with RM timepieces, I find the skeletonizing of the movements makes the dial more difficult to read.

The carbon case is quite large at 50mm x 40mm however that, combined with the bright colors, should make the RM 011 easier to spot on Massa’s wrist when he wears it at the US F1 Grand Prix scheduled to take place in Austin, Texas in November this year.

OUR EXPERT OPINION 

Although I must admit I found the dial a bit beguiling at first glance, once my eyes adjusted to the bright colors and the ‘noise’ I realized that the RM 011 is easier to read than other Richard Mille timepieces. I like the use of contrasting color and the yellow helmet at 7 o’clock is a nice final touch to let you know that this is a timepiece associated with F1 without having to broadcast it all over the dial.

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HUBLOT & USAIN BOLT

1. Yes, you guessed it, it’s collaboration time. Again. Teaming up with yet another of their numerous ambassadors – in this case athletic superstar and current world’s fastest man Usain ‘Lighting’ Bolt – Hublot presents the creatively titled King Power Usain Bolt.
   The Lighting Bolt
   Subtle jibes about the name aside, this latest ‘dedication’ from Hublot is actually pretty cool, if a bit egomaniacal. Presented in an over-sized 48mm King Power case, the color scheme is predominantly black with gold highlights across the dial, colors strongly associated with Mr. Bolt.
   As you would expect the King Power Usain Bolt is powered by a chronograph movement – the Calibre HUB4100 to be precise. Functions include a central 60-second hand and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, as well as a 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock decorated with a touch of green in a nod to the colors of the Jamaican flag. At 9 o’clock there is a permanent small seconds counter with an anthracite grey transfer of Bolt’s silhouette, assuming the iconic pose he is world renowned for, contrasting against the black background. A date window at 4.30 completes the design.
   
   For the final touch the strap is made from exactly the same gold-colored synthetic leather as the shoes Bolt wore when he broke the world records in Beijing in 2008. This is stitched onto black rubber – a Hublot signature – to guarantee comfort, strength and flexibility and really provides a striking contrast against the black case and dial.
   The King Power Usain Bolt will be produced in an individually numbered, limited edition series of 250 pieces.
   
   
   
   It’s no secret that Hublot is the king of limited edition timepieces. It almost feels like the brand comes out with a new “collaboration” every month sometimes but hate them or love them, I must say they occasionally make some pretty cool timepieces and they seem to have a good time doing it. And of course it’s always amusing to hear the spin that Hublot visionary and chairman Jean-Claude Biver puts on the brand’s latest variant, the King Power Usain Bolt being no exception;
   “It’s perfectly natural to be associated with the fastest man, not just on the planet, but the fastest since the Big Bang”
   Genius!
   For more information please visit the official Hublot website: www.hublot.com

Speake-Marin Piccadilly Serpent Calendar

The Piccadilly range has been a mainstream stay of the Speake-Marin brand since the company was founded in 2000. The original Piccadilly used a heavily modified ETA movement, replacing a range of parts to improve performance, longevity and look. This combined with the rear mounted rotor meant that they were quite thick, but managed to retain a balanced aesthetic.

Subsequent new models utilising Peter’s own in-house calibres are marvels of the watchmaker’s art in which every part has both function and form this has the effect of  reducing the case profile and overall weight whilst still retaining the distinctive Speake-Marin style.

The Spirit Pioneer launched last year at Salon QP was an unqualified success selling out the whole edition of 68 pieces in just a few days. It has always been Peter’s desire to make watches which have all the core values of his more exclusive models available to a wider audience.

The Serpent Calendar
For 2012 there will be a new Piccadilly model, although really it takes its design cues from an old favorite, the iconic Serpent Calendar. The main internal change is a move away from the increasingly difficult to source ETA movement to one created by TechnoTime using Peter’s design specifications called the “Eros 1″. An unusual name for a movement perhaps, but Speake-Marin explains: “I am English, the case name is Piccadilly after my formative years working in Piccadilly, London, and Eros is the famous landmark statue in Piccadilly Circus.”

The visual appeal of the movement has been greatly increased; the signature winding rotor is larger, blued, and displayed through a much larger sapphire crystal window, with an accent cut away in the top right to show the balance wheel. The case is much slimmer now too at just 12mm and the watch’s lugs really make it fit very snugly to the wrist. Also available for the first time with a Speake-Marin is a branded deployment clasp, and very comfortable it is too, as witnessed by this wrist shot.

Classic Style, Modern Convenience
For those familiar with previous Speake-Marin models you will already be well aware of the “Serpent Calendar” style, but for this version several changes have been made. Previously the calendar, indicated by a snaking hand, was set on the outer edge of the dial, now however it is situated on an inner ring following the line of a pressed area in the centre of the dial. This really improves readability of the date; something I always thought was a slight issue in the original. The exaggerated curves of the date hand also ensure that it is never completely covered by either the hour or minute hands.

The change in movement also means that all adjustments can be made via the crown rather than needing a separate button on the case edge, making the process a lot more straight forward.

As with previous Piccadilly models the new Serpent Calendar will be available in both 38mm and 42mm versions. There will be no platinum or titanium versions at first but rather sensible steel and red gold, though of course if you would like a custom version you only need to ask.

Reasonably Priced
Available immediately pricing is very reasonable at 12,800CHF (US$14,000) for the 38mm in steel and 13,350CHF (US$14,700) for 42mm in steel. Prices rise to 19,800CHF (US$21,800) for 38mm in red gold and 23,900CHF (US$26,324.49) for the 42mm in red gold which represents excellent value for money as, after all, it is a Speake-Marin.

If you would like to get your hands on one of the classic Piccadilly models it is still possible via special order. These come with the beautiful enamel dial, but due to the expense of manufacture this will add on about 1,000CHF to the price and it is only available as “time only”.

Speake-Marin goes from strength to strength with the release of the new Serpent Calendar, providing high quality timepieces at sensible prices, making it is possible for anyone to save up and own something that will give you a lifetime of faithful service and do so with a touch of real style.

For more information please visit the official Speake-Marin website: www.speake-marin.com

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THE MOONMACHINE BY MB&F, 

A SUPERB MASTERPIECE

A short while ago MB&F unveiled their fifth ever Performance Art piece – the MOONMACHINE – a mini-event that has completely obliterated any previously held perceptions I had of what the concept of ‘cool’ actually encapsulates. A HM3 Frog complete with Stepan Sarpanevamoon-face moon-phase complication? Now that is cool!

Performance Art

In the past MB&F has worked with jewelers (how could you forget the stunning JWLRYMACHINE created in conjunction with Boucheron?), watch designers (the HM2.2 by Alain Silberstein) and others to create their unique Performance Art pieces but never with another watchmaker. That is until now.

The MOONMACHINE

This latest addition – and one that is quickly becoming my favorite of the collection – is the result a highly successful collaboration with Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, and is the first ever to endow a Horological Machine with a new complication. Based on Sarpaneva’s own face the distinctive moon-face moon-phase complication has achieved almost a cult following amongst dedicated fans of the brand and can be found in one variation or another on many of his watches.

The quality of finishing is superb but what I really love about the design however is its unique ability to imbue the timepiece it adorns with a real sense of character. Even though in my mind the HM3 is already such a distinctive timepiece the effect of adding the moon-face almost makes me like I am discovering a new piece for the first time. I know that may sound strange or hard to believe for some of you, especially as we have already seen several iterations of the HM3 before, but I encourage you to watch the video below before you make your mind up for sure.

The slow orbit of the two moon-faces is mesmerizing and the size and openness of the rotor window lends itself marvelously well to the display of this complication. Adding an extra element to the astrological theme the winding rotor, made from a steel and 22k gold disc, has been decorated with laser-pierced stars, forming the stars and constellations visible in the northern sky. As you can see in the video above the subtle effect of its movement only serves to further enhance that sense of animation and life that the Sarpaneva moon-face brings.

The new MOONMACHINE is available in three limited editions of 18 pieces each: titanium case with white gold moon faces in a light blue sky, black titanium case with white gold moon faces in a dark blue sky and red gold case with red gold moon faces in an anthracite sky.

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