THE ANTIKYTHERA BY HUBLOT

A homage to the most ancient "astronomical calculator" in history: Hublot adds a new time dimension to the Antikythera mechanism

The Antikythera mechanism is one of the most mysterious objects in the history of civilisation. Nowadays it is renowned and studied in great detail by the scientific community, but when it was first discovered back in 1901, its great historical and technical value remained a mystery to be uncovered. The very idea of a "machine" created in Greco-Roman Antiquity did not enter the conceptual framework of the specialists of the time. Thereafter, obscurantist statements from non-scientists claimed that the artefacts from Antikythera were almost extraterrestrial in nature, which only served to muddy the waters.

Toothed wheels eaten away by corrosion

The fragments of this "machine" were only analysed in-depth, taking a multidisciplinary approach, at the beginning of the 21st century. This work enabled the complexity of this extraordinary mechanism to be better understood. It is now clear that this "astronomical instrument" dates from the 2nd century BC (between 150 and 100 BC, with a more recent estimate dating it around 87 BC). Originally, it served as a "calculator"; its bronze gear trains were housed in a wooden box measuring approximately 33 cm x 18 cm and its case was sealed with two bronze plaques covered with inscriptions.

Only 82 fragments of this "machine" still remain, some minuscule, all corroded: they are now forever protected in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens. A state-of-the-art tomography study (using an X-ray scanner) has provided images which can be used both scientifically and archaeologically, revealing numerous internal gear trains which are invisible to the naked eye, toothed wheels and new inscriptions hidden under the concretions: less than a quarter of the ancient Greek lettering of this text engraved on the "machine" has successfully been deciphered, but it is believed to be a sort of "instruction manual" for the mechanical calculator, also thought to show the movement of some major planets. The gears were driven by what is believed to be a side handwheel – but the possibility of an auxiliary hydraulic system has not been ruled out.

On the trail of the great Archimedes...

It is now accepted that this machine could have been designed in Rhodes, home to a community of astronomers including Hipparchus, as well as "mechanical engineers" such as Posidonios. A new hypothesis has been sketched out: this machine is probably closely linked to Syracuse, in Sicily, the city of the famous mathematical genius Archimedes, then a prosperous Corinthian colony. The Antikythera mechanism could have been designed there before the shipwreck which subsequently gave the island its name.

According to current knowledge and based on the inscriptions which have been deciphered, the Antikythera mechanism could show the different cycles of the sun, the moon and (in all likelihood) the planets, relating these to the civil calendars of several large Greek cities (Corinth, Delphi or Olympia), and showing the dates of the different games in these cities....

The study of the Antikythera mechanism – only very recently begun – is far from being finished, but it has given rise to a great wave of reinterpretation and reassessment of our knowledge of Antiquity. The reality of the mechanical knowledge held by these Greek scholars is a fantastic field to explore. It may even be that a record is found, in the texts or in the hidden reserves of museums, of other "machines" like the Antikythera mechanism.

Mechanical gear trains which express a mathematical vision of the cosmos

The Antikythera mechanism is not a clock capable of showing the time: the ancient Greeks did not experience time as we do. A genuine cosmograph (a machine to describe the cosmos), and more precisely a selenograph (a machine to describe the movements of the Moon), the Antikythera mechanism was highly accurate and could show multiple astronomical cycles, including the Metonic cycle (named after the Greek astronomer Meton: it runs for 19 years, equal to 235 lunar months) or the Callippic cycle (named after the Greek astronomer Callippus: it runs for 76 years, equal to 940 lunar months or four Metonic cycles), correcting any inaccuracies. The Antikythera mechanism also showed the Saros cycle (223 lunar months covering just over 18 years), as well as the Exeligmos cycle (equivalent to three Saros cycles, or 54 years) which served especially to predict eclipses.

The volume of astronomical data compiled to create a mathematical model able to summarise such cycles using mechanical gear trains is astonishing evidence of the conceptual abilities of the scholars and engineers of Antiquity. Given that a computer can generate data other than that entered into it, the Antikythera "machine" really is the first mechanical computer known to man. It was a good thousand years ahead of the first astronomical clocks created on a whole different scale in the main European cities in the Middle Ages.

The first watch ever to be inspired by an archaeological finding

In 2008, the revelation by the scientific journal, Nature, of tomographic analyses performed on the fragments of the machine certainly fuelled the imagination of some less conservative watchmakers. Mathias Buttet, current Director of Manufacturing and R&D at the Hublot manufacture, wanted to pay homage to the historical legacy which this first mechanical masterpiece represents. A technical tribute and a miniature recreation of the entire Antikythera mechanism as revealed by scientific analysis, crafted to fit perfectly on the wrist. It is also a homage to watchmaking, as it adds a new dimension to this astronomical calculator: that of a timepiece in its own right, capable of accurately measuring the time.

It is the first time in the history of watches that a watchmaking development office has taken direct inspiration in this way from an "archaeological" mechanism dating back to Antiquity. It is also the first time that a watchmaking team has worked hand in hand with a team of scientists bringing together leading international figures in archaeology, epigraphy and historians of mechanical engineering.

The watchmakers helped the archaeologists to better understand some gear trains and to confirm some hypotheses relating to the mechanics, while the scientists shared with the watchmakers technical solutions hitherto lost in Antiquity (in particular circular gears with non- linear cycles).

The sheer ability of the mechanical engineers of Antiquity to create such efficient bronze gear trains opens up new horizons in their philosophical relationships with technical progress and with the place of machines in their conception of the world – which can only in turn make us question our own relationship with modern-day machines and "gadgets"...

Faithful reproduction of the astronomical indications of the mechanism conceived by the ancient Greeks

The challenge facing Mathias Buttet's team was to integrate a watchmaking movement in a miniaturised reinterpretation of the Antikythera mechanism, respecting the architecture of the original, and in particular its double-sided display. The team's first task was to create in a few cubic centimetres what the mechanical engineers of Antiquity had developed over several hundreds of cubic centimetres, ensuring their creation was perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the original mechanism, both in terms of its accuracy and the legibility of its indications.

The hours and minutes are displayed in the conventional manner, at the centre of the movement recreated by Hublot and presented for the first time at the Musée des Arts et Métiers de Paris (the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Paris), as part of its exhibition entitled "Antikythera, the enigmatic machine which arose from the depths of time". This watchmaking movement is regulated by a conventional tourbillon whose "cage" at 6 o'clock completes one revolution in one minute.

The various known indications of the Antikythera "machine" have been faithfully reproduced on its modern-day counterpart, both on the front and on the back. The primary face of the movement shows: the calendar for the Panhellenic games (which designated those cities hosting the games), the Egyptian calendar (12 months each of 30 days, with the epagomenal, or additional, days), the position of the sun in the constellations of the Zodiac, the phases of the Moon (with a magnificent hand and aperture which shows the position of the Moon in the zodiac throughout the sidereal month), as well as the sidereal year. The back of the watchmaking movement shows the Callippic cycle, the Metonic cycle, the Saros cycle and the Exeligmos cycle.

A modern micro-mechanical tribute to the mechanical engineers of Antiquity

This is the first time in the history of timepieces that these cycles - a legacy from Antiquity – have been studied, reproduced and displayed mechanically: to create some of these gears, the Hublot team had to develop a highly innovative concept of noncircular telescopic hands, capable of pointing to the spiral discs of varying diameters.

The Hublot "Antikythera" watch housing this watchmaking movement, a concept devised in Antiquity, will be presented at the Baselworld watch show in Spring 2012. After that, the movement will be on show at a permanent exhibition which the Musée des Arts et Métiers is dedicating to the Antikythera mechanism: a 2D and 3D film produced by Hublot will be projected at the exhibition to share with the public the whole story of this Antikythera "machine" from Antiquity to the modern day, creating a bridge between the knowledge of the mechanical engineers of Antiquity and the expertise of 21st century watchmakers. 

NEW ERA IN DEGRISOGONO, THE OTTURATORE

DYNAMIC COMPLICATIONS CREATE A NEW DIMENSION IN HOROLOGY

Imagined by Fawaz Gruosi and combining a dynamic display and improved legibility, the highly original OTTURATORE design raises the art of horological complications to a new level of inventive excellence. The centerpiece of this unprecedented creation – the first to be entirely developed and crafted in-house – is a high-performance mobile “sequencer” boasting three patented de GRISOGONO innovations. This groundbreaking model confirms de GRISOGONO’s determination to shun the beaten track in favor of genuine innovation.

A new concept in the de GRISOGONO style and spirit only makes sense if it embodies a good measure of bold design, refined aesthetics, expert workmanship and contemporary sophistication. This complex and demanding vision gave rise to the OTTURATORE, first introduced as a prototype in 2008, and now available on the market in five different models, two exclusive for the de GRISOGONO boutiques. Radiating a contemporary baroque design expressed through superlative technical features, useful functions, subtle detailing and eye-catching displays, its stylish lines conceal an unusually complex and resolutely world-first sequential rotating dial mechanism. To give a concrete idea of the extremes embodied in this technology that truly takes timekeeping into a new dimension, the dial rotates 18 times faster than the blink of an eye (16/1000ths of a second compared with 3/10ths of a second); and the acceleration energy required (9G) is greater than that of a jet plane (8G).

Along with the hour and minute hands at the center, the OTTURATORE displays on demand the seconds, the date, the phases of the moon and the movement’s power reserve. Its greatest originality lies in the selective display of each of these separate indications. Classic Haute Horlogerie timepieces usually fit all their complications together on the dial, thereby detracting from the latter’s instant legibility. Fawaz Gruosi chose to simplify the dial layout for much improved clarity: thanks to the OTTURATORE’s mobile dial, the wearer chooses which indication he wants to consult and his OTTURATORE will display it, while hiding the three others from view.

INSTANTLY CONTROLLED MECHANICAL FUNCTIONS

Patented by de GRISOGONO, the OTTURATORE’s basic feature is a mobile clockwise-rotated dial operated simply by pressing a mechanical pushpiece. The increment of rotation of such a device depends on the number of complications or indications of the watch; the OTTURATORE’s increment of rotation is 90°. While the principle seems simple enough, its design is totally unprecedented: it propels watchmaking technology from the sphere of slow speeds to that of hyper velocities. In this sense, de GRISOGONO has challenged one of the fundamentals of horology head on!

Until now, horological complications focused mainly on a specific function, usually a matter of actioning a simple sequence of gears or springs. The OTTURATORE truly embodies another dimension in time. A slight pressure on a pushpiece – whose travel is of the order of one millimeter – is enough to harness enough power to drive the mobile dial by 90° instantly. In a standard mechanical construction, a finger pressing a pushpiece for a brief instant exerts insufficient force to set in motion mechanical components with strong inertial resistance. The OTTURATORE’s sequential selector can achieve this because it can instantly action the various dynamic functions (controls, connecting and disconnecting operations, mechanical memory, gears and so forth) while taking into account power drain, inertia and friction. The complex interplay of the movements involved generates counterforces, a bit like a car instantly accelerating to its top speed then immediately braking to a full stop with absolute precision on a predetermined line.

A SEQUENTIAL DISPLAY MODULE WITH OVER 300 COMPONENTS

de GRISOGONO’s exclusive sequential display module comprises over 300 components. It includes its own mainspring and barrel providing the necessary reserve power and manually wound by pressing a mechanical pushpiece. A second, more traditional mainspring-and-barrel unit gives the movement a 42-hour power reserve.

Since innovative mechanical solutions call for contemporary Haute Horlogerie design, the OTTURATORE’s substantial cambered rectangular case features a pair of large pushpieces, as well as a crown engraved with the signature de GRISOGONO crest. The dial designed in three parts specifically highlights de GRISOGONO’s novel approach to time displays. Its exclusive design is notable for its contrasts and plurality of levels.

The case’s very contemporary character contrasts elegantly with a cobbled “Clous de Paris” pattern in the grand tradition, as do the finely proportioned “dauphine” style hour and minute hands with the strict geometry of the case. The “hidden face” of de GRISOGONO’s new design is protected by a cambered sapphire crystal, revealing a blackened movement and traditional decorative motifs characteristic of complex watchmaking. The transparent case back provides a revealing look at the heart of a timepiece that sets pioneering standards of elegance in luxury, innovation in refinement and excellence in performance.

A NEW LEVEL OF TECHNOLOGICAL SOPHISTICATION

The development of the sequential display selector proved such a challenge that de GRISOGONO’s research team had to resort to innovative, sophisticated techniques such as simulation and numerical calculations. Adding mathematics to software to apply physical laws, techniques of this kind are commonly used in the research labs of the aeronautics and automotive industries. Using models incorporating multiple variables, special programs of this kind serve to optimize mechanical operations and functions.

Were it not for them, designing the OTTURATORE would have been a hopeless task. The most expert watchmaker can of course gauge the movement of watch hands but he would be at a loss to master the dual relationships between fleeting mechanical functions lasting a few milliseconds.

The OTTURATORE’s unique design should be seen as an initial step in the development of a new generation of timepieces. Heralding a novel dimension in Haute Horlogerie design, the sequential selector patented by de GRISOGONO will inevitably appear in other applications that are bound to alter dramatically the world of horological complications.

 We leave you here with the official video of this great piece, if you enjoyed this article support us at our Facebook and Twitter page.

RECREATING THE UNIVERSE, THE REAL MOON 1980 BY CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW

The Netherlands has an age-old tradition in the field of traditionally-made timepieces. The traditional techniques are passed on from generation to generation. These technical skills are combined with great creativity. The Dutch province of Friesland is famous for the technically-ingenious and stunning clocks that are designed and made there. In the picturesque Frisian village of Joure, Christiaan van der Klaauw started designing and making exclusive hand-made astronomical timepieces in the early nineteen-seventies. Christiaan van der Klaauw received his education at the instrument-maker school founded in 1901 by Nobel Physics prize winner Prof. Heike Kamerlingh Onnes. It was at this school that helium gas was liquefied for the first time in 1908. Some contemporaries who worked for the same laboratory were Albert Einstein, Niels Bohr, H. Lorentz and W. Röntgen. During his education, Christiaan did his apprenticeship with the oldest observatory in the world, founded in 1633. The world-famous astronomer Prof. J.H. Oort (discoverer of the Planetoid belt named after him) was attached to this observatory. During his apprenticeship, Christiaan became increasingly interested in everything connected with astronomy, which showed later on in the production of his Frisian clocks, table clocks and, eventually, his watches.

The well-known astronomer from Leiden, Christiaan Huygens, maker of the first Pendulum clock, inspired Christiaan van der Klaauw to design his first timepieces. The bracket clocks made early on in his career were technically very complicated and had, even at this early stage, ingenious astronomical applications. The timepieces from this period are real collectors' items nowadays. In 1990 Christiaan van der Klaauw presented a true masterpiece: the Astronomical Clock. This clock was one of the reasons why he was asked to become a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI).

In 1992 Christiaan van der Klaauw won the prestigious gold medal at the watch fair of Basel with his 'Pendule Variable', which won him a definite place among the great contemporary masters.

THE MASTERPIECE real moon 1980

With the Real Moon 1980, Christiaan van der Klaauw presents one of the most attractive and interesting watches of the past year. In the Real Moon 1980, the year refers to a famous clock that Christiaan van der Klaauw made in 1980 and that contained a beautiful miniature Moon. With this watch, Christiaan van der Klaauw has combined a number of ingenious complications in a wonderful creation.

At the six o’clock position on the dial of the watch, a true-to-life ‘miniature’ Moon depicts its actual phases. At the 12 o’clock position, the height of the Sun in relation to the horizon can be read by means of a fine moving Christiaan van der Klaauw logo. The axis of the Earth’s rotation is tilted with respect to the position of the Sun. The result of this phenomenon - called declination - is that at places where the Earth is tilted towards the Sun, it is summer. Where it is winter, the Earth is tilted away from the Sun, and it is colder. The three o’clock position is reserved for the so-called Eclipse hand. When the Eclipse hand moves within the indication marks, there is an eclipse of the Sun or the Moon somewhere on the Earth. Finally, there is the nine o’clock position. Here, the phase of the Moon and the date can be seen.

In the upper part of the face we have a zodiac indicator.

With this surprising and innovative combination of complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw proves once again that he belongs to the elite in the world of ‘haute horlogerie'.

Some specifications of this masterpiece:

Movement: CK 1094 modified self-winding movement with in-house Real Moon 1980 module.

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, month; moonphase, declination of the sun; eclipse hand indicates solar and lunar eclipse.

Case: Rose gold, ø 40 mm. anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back.

Dial: Silver with blue indexes.

Hands: Blued steel.

Strap: Black alligator leather.

Buckle: Logo engraved rose gold buckle.

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THE RAISE OF A NEW KIND, THE KLEPCYS BY CYRUS

Located in Versoix, in the state of Geneva are the headquarters of this magnificent new brand CYRUS, driven by the two visionary founders Julien and Laurent had given life to an historic collection that brings to this industry a new way of tracking the time.

In this occasion we had the privilege of meeting Julien and Laurent during our trip to Mexico where they very successfully presented their new collection, where the Klepcys Pieces literary toke the main attraction of the event.

The Klepcys collection has brought long forgotten history back to life. Almost all the intellectuals and scientists of the era are united in this exquisite watch, witch is only available in a limited edition series and whose owner will be its sole guardian.

this unique timepiece with reference to the Babylonian architecture and wealth inspires in us a certain lust…

The case design  expresses the enthusiasm for Cyrus men and their emotions as they saw the walls of Babylon in the distance. Mighty, inaccessible, proud and characteristic among thousands. The watch sums up this notion with its design and selection of the highest quality materials.  a 48mm Case boasts  for walls in the shape of horns  with high quality finish, and encompasses the main watch mechanism.

Made of 18k red or grey gold case combined with grade 5 titanium with a DLC(diamond like carbon) finish is available only in limited series.

The mechanism provides with 3 exceptional functions, the retrograde hand moves along 180degress axis and changes color ((while rotating) depending of the time of day (day or night). Regardless of the hands position, the minute and seconds discs are always aligned and accurate during the linear reading of the time. This patented alignment based on a one of a kind mechanism witch controls the speed of the hour, minute and second wheels.

The date is another great complication. The units digits rest one on top of the other, while the ten digits change before the units digits reaches the figure 9, the figure moves in retrograde and rotates by 90 degrees. It simultaneously opens the space for the next tens digit witch is placed before the units digit 0.

Finally the tribute to the Babylon tower, the building of a full moon with realistic crater images witch links the watch to the sky. The lunar fasces are represented by a black patch witch gradually covers the full moon. When the moon is fully covered, the three-section CYRUS logo becomes visible. Time eventually conquers the waning moon.

in the back of the watch KLEPCYS collection contains a copy of more than 2500 years old COIN, fashioned during the time of CYRUS, an amazing touch of quality and distinction.

We have no doubt that is brand is going to shine as their timepieces are doing with this incredible innovating designs and beauty.

We wish you enjoyed this article and please support us in our Facebook and Twitter page; we leave you whit the official video of the watch.

Our most  high gratitude to Laurent and Julien, best of luck guys!

WITH EGYPTIAN MAJESTY, THE SHABAKA BY JEAN DUNAND

We decided to share with you a watch that is a beauty of  engineering and design, definitely a beautiful piece that worth to take a  look into, the SHABAKA by  Jean Dunand.

Jean Dunand Pièces Uniques was founded in 2003 by master watchmaker Christophe Claret, Switzerland’s leading inventor and constructor of complicated movements, and horological entrepreneur Thierry Oulevay.

Their shared aim: to create advanced and unprecedented horological mechanisms as the basis for unique timepieces representing the summit of contemporary watchmaking.
The two men share a fascination for the Swiss-born artist Jean Dunand (1877–1942), one of the great craftsmen of the art deco movement, and they paid him homage by naming their new brand in his honor.

No watch shares its materials and decoration with another. However, the styling of the watches is always consistent with the art deco ideals of simple geometries, functional design and high craftsmanship in precious materials.

Each Jean Dunand Pièce Unique crafts integral and contemporary works of art... truly unique pieces.

THE SHABAKA

The art deco Egyptian styling of the Shabaka belies an astonishing feat of micro-engineering including a minute repeater with cathedral gongs and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with an ingenious display of day, date, month, moon phases and leap-year cycle.

The calendar indications use four cylinders rotated by their own transmission systems, each fitted with a security device to ensure precise calendar changes. The date, day and month all jump instantaneously around midnight.

The leap year is balanced on the dial by the phases of the moon. Black discs travel over the moon’s surface like the shadow of the earth, accurately eclipsing it to the left as it wanes, and revealing it from the right as it waxes. It deviates from the real moon by one day every 120 years.

The mainspring in an open barrel indicates power reserve against a scale and, thanks to the cathedral gongs, the melodic crystalline chimes of the minute repeater are considerably more powerful than most.

As with every Jean Dunand timepiece, each Shabaka is a unique piece.

Some specifications about this pieces are that contains 721 parts including 54 jewels, the 18K red or white gold with a high-tech multilevel dial
Dimensions gives this beautiful piece the uniqueness that only Jean Dunanad can provide.

we leave you  with the official video of the watch and as always if you enjoyed this one please support us at our Facebook and Twitter page.